FAQ

faq

How often are applications performed?

We visit your property every 4 – 6 weeks.

How do I know an application has been completed?

We leave a flag in your lawn and an invoice on your door to let you know we have applied.

Do I need to stay off my lawn after an application?

The invoice left on your door after each application will always provide this information based on what products were applied that day. Rest assured our products have all been carefully screened and regulated by the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

  • Fertilizer: No wait needed.
  • Weed Control: Wait until spray has dried (60 minutes).
  • Insecticide: Water product in and wait until area has dried (60 – 120 minutes).
  • Fungicide: Wait until spray has dried (60 minutes).
When is it OK to mow after you’ve applied?
  • Wait to mow 24 – 48 hours after any liquid treatment.
  • If you mulch, you can mow immediately after a granular application.
  • If you bag, wait until after a granular application has been watered in.
How long does it take to service my lawn?
  • Using the most technologically advanced equipment allows a technician to service one acre in 15 minutes.
  • We’ll be finished and out of your way in no time.
What are grubs, and is a grub control application needed every year?
  • Grubs are the larvae stage in the life cycle of beetles, and damage occurs when these larvae feed on the root system of your turfgrass, causing large patches to die.
  • A preventive grub control applied once a year will protect the investment you’ve made in your lawn for an entire season.
I have moles in my yard. Does that mean I have grubs?
  • The diet of a mole consists primarily of earthworms and grubs.
  • Reducing food sources like grubs may discourage their activity, but don’t expect them to immediately head for the hills.
Which is better, aerating or dethatching, and when is the best time to do it?
  • We prefer the benefits of aeration. It’s best to aerate in the fall rather than springtime when soil is saturated and soggy.
  • Aeration not only reduces thatch over time but also improves soil conditions by opening up the root zone for better rooting and uptake of water and nutrients.
  • Thatch reduction from aeration isn’t a result of physically removing thatch. Instead, it creates an environment in the thatch layer that increases microbial activity to digest the unwanted thatch.
At what height should I set my lawn mower? I like my lawn short.
  • The higher the better. This can’t be stressed enough!
  • We recommend a minimum height of 3″. Mowing any shorter will take a negative toll on your lawn at some point during the season.
  • Taller mowing helps to “shade out” many weeds, including our archenemy… crabgrass.
  • At an increased cutting height, your grass produces a deeper and more efficient root system that reduces its overall watering needs.
How often should I water?
  • Turf grasses need roughly 1″ – 1.5″ of water per week.
    • Many factors such as soil type and weather conditions have a role in your lawn’s water needs.
  • Water as infrequently as possible.
    • Thoroughly water when you do water so moisture soaks down to the roots.
    • Avoid frequent waterings that promote shallower root systems and weeds/crabgrass.
  • Water early in the day.
    • Given a choice, water early in the day when your lawn is normally wet from dew.
    • Avoid midday watering due to excessive evaporation.
    • Avoid night watering due to the increased risk of disease gaining a foothold, especially fungus.

 

Should I bag or mulch my clippings?
  • Mulch them whenever possible. Grass clippings returned to your lawn provide up to 25 percent of your lawn’s total fertilizer needs
  • Clippings contain about 4 percent nitrogen, 2 percent potassium, and 1 percent phosphorus.
  • While decomposing, they also serve indirectly as a food source for the bacteria in your soil, which are doing many beneficial things (such as decomposing thatch) for a healthy turf environment.
Can I keep my pet from damaging my lawn?
  • Some dog owners get frustrated by the spots their pet leaves on the lawn, but there aren’t any practical ways to avoid it other than training your dog to only “go” in one particular area of the lawn.
  • The problem is that the high amount of salt in the animal’s urine burns the turf. Having to hose down the area every time the dog goes just isn’t practical for most people.